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Sunday was certainly a contender for “Most Memorable Day of The Trip.” We made our way across New Mexico (taking care to speed through the nexus of misfortune and bad luck that is Las Cruces, NM) and down into the very southern-most part of Arizona.

I’ll admit to feeling a twinge of anxiety as we left the comfort of the interstate for a rough and weathered and mostly empty two lane that ran along side an abandoned rail line. Highway 80 cuts south into Arizona, kisses the Mexico border in Douglas and then heads north towards Tuscon.


It’s a wild, barren land down there, and it was exciting to peer into Mexico. I could tell we were getting near the border by all the “Watch for Animals” signs and all the white pickups of La Migra hidden in the brush. “I can’t imagine” is a phrase that I keep thinking on this trip, and in this case I can’t imagine sneaking across this hard, cruel land where every plant is thorny and sharp and the rain and the sun are deadly.

Our destination for the evening was The Shady Dell in Bisbee, AZ. More on that in a sec…We rolled into Bisbee before check in time, so we decided to go past Bisbee to Tombstone. Tombstone, site of the infamous shootout at the OK Corral was um, OK. I guess spending time in the Stockyards in Fort Worth has desensitized me to the novelty of Wild West tourist attractions.

We wandered around a bit…didn’t want to pay $$ to see the OK Corral…I didn’t buy an embroidered western shirt I should have bought…and ended up at a saloon, where we had an ice cold beverage and some chips and salsa. The salsa, I believe, was made in New York City. Get a rope.


So the Shady Dell is a really cool place to spend the night. Instead of rooms guests stay in trailers from the mid 20th century; there are a few Airstreams, a Chris Craft yacht, an tiki-themed bus. We stayed in a 1950 Spartan-”ette”. Tar and I felt like little kids on a camp-out in a super fort, especially because our particular trailer was outfitted with two kid-szied twin beds instead of a full-sized bed.


I wish our schedule wasn’t as fixed as it is; The Shady Dell is a relaxing place. Part of it is being out in the middle of the desert…our cell phones didn’t work and there weren’t no internets…The Spartenette had a selection of books including a 50’s pulp novel that Tar read while I worked on Thoreau’s Walden. Charlie Parker played on the the mock-vintage radio, and if we weren’t so tired at day’s end, we could have watched a couple of vintage horror films of the refurbed vintage TV.

A place like The Shady Dell has real potential to go overboard on the retro-nostalgia-George Lucas-PT Cruiser-Diner-Letterman’s Jacket-sock hop tip, but they managed to keep their pants on and delivery a pleasant, authentic experience.


All of our fellow guests seemed to be feeling the friendly vibe and if we hadn’t have gone to dinner in Old Bisbee, I am sure we would have made some new friends.

A bit of disclosure, as much as we enjoyed our stay in the the Spartanette, there were some downsides. The trailer is almost 60 years old so there was a bit of a mildewey smell. And trying to be an eco-warrior, I didn’t turn on the heater so’s to save energy. I woke up in the middle of the night and the thermometer read 44 degrees. Once I got the heater going the trailer warmed up right quick.

Bisbee’s main claim to fame is the turquoise mine that used to go off there. You know your town is in trouble if the empty pit mine is a main attraction. Fortunately, Old Bisbee is so darn neat.

The tiny town has some of the oldest buildings in the area, and the streets wind up and down the tight valley walls. Most of the streets are one way. I got the impression getting around even such a small area is difficult enough that most folks just walk. In the evening the streets were full of happy folks wandering from the handful of restaurants to the handful of saloons.There’s a cool mellow arto hippy vibe, and the health food co-op had lots of yummy veg treats.


I’ve spent most of my recent days in the heart of the unchecked sprawl of the FW/D Metroplex or the urban density of San Francisco, I’ve forgotten just how truly vast and empty so much of the United States is. We’ve been putting in some long days in the car; umm, I can’t imagine riding a horse across this expanse. How many miles a day can you do on a horse, anyway?
